After asking this question (Why would a compass not work in my world?), I've been spending too much time thinking about navigation and direction - specifically, what innate sense of direction might my human character be capable of?
My character flies dragons, so navigation is a handy skill to have, especially when flying over places with few landmarks, or having no visible sun or stars to work with. My ideal scenario is that she has a navigating ability that has passed down through generations - perhaps all of her family have it too, perhaps none of them seem to present it, but it's something that her ancestors had and were known for, so she's inherited it from them. I'd also like it to be a very unusual trait. Maybe a few families have a certain predisposition for it, but it's seen as quite a rare, special thing. For example, I've read of languages that refer to cardinal directions rather than 'left' and 'right' and so on, but I'd prefer this heightened sense of direction to be limited to only a few people, rather than being widespread through all speakers of a certain language.
She lives in a world where steampunk-level technology is developing (it's more advanced and more prevalent in bigger towns and cities), but I'd really like to avoid using tech to solve this problem if at all possible. I've heard of experiments where people had to wear tactile compass belts that vibrate in order to help with wearers' sense of direction, which is super cool, but I'd prefer it to be an innate characteristic rather than an item that helps with her navigation.
The other thing to contend with is the world she lives in. She lives in the world described in my previous question, which, thanks to L.Dutch - Reinstate Monica's answer, is now populated with large magnetic ore deposits, making a magnetised compass basically unusable. I'm guessing then that human magnetoreception wouldn't work? (Aside from the fact that human magnetoreception is kind of a contested topic...) There is magic in the world, but it's more for the existence of the occasional mythological creature than for reality-bending stuff, so I'd prefer not to rely on that.
So, with all of that, why does my character have such a good sense of direction? I'd prefer things to be based mainly on reality if at all possible - I'm fine with stretching things a bit though, like the magnetoreception idea, but would like not to get too wild if I've got an option. If not, handwaving it is.