It's plausible to get a nice life.
First: Wind Turbine
Don't bother, unless you can raid an electrical parts store and know how to build the complex circuit from memory. You'll need a bridge rectifier and a boost converter minimum. And that doesn't have the electrical safety brakes to stop the thing blowing away in strong winds.
I have a half an electrical engineering degree and even I'd put it off till last.
Solar panels - the tyranny of MPPT
First - try to find a solar inverter in a box somewhere that survived the EMP. They may survive depending on packaging or orientation. That will make your life so much easier, basically this becomes plug and play.
If you can't You're not going to be able to get the most efficient use of your panels, but you can still use them.
Manually calibrating solar panels to run without an inverter
Try to get an analogue voltmeter from an electronics store. A multimeter in packaging and turned off and packed on the shelf will probably survive an EMP and is preferred, but analogue will do. You need to take some precise voltage readings from your solar panels at different orientations at different times of the day.
The panels on your roof are probably wired in series, trying to get as high a voltage as possible for an inverter, which is now completely fried. My 15 panels would put out ~300V DC / 0 amps open circuit, ~150V DC / ~8 amps if short circuited, and have an optimum max wattage somewhere in between, depending on the exact time of day and cloud levels. Your solar inverter will do a non-trivial thing called MPPT to find that optimal level.
In battery systems the inverter will have a charger, which detects the battery condition and converts the power to the optimal required for charging. My battery system needs 14.6V for the bulk of the day, and 13.7 when the battery charge level gets above about 80%. The battery charger will also cut the connection to the solar cells at night, as solar cells connected to batteries at night will drain power.
Without any clever electronics, you need to make sure that your solar system puts out these optimal levels for your battery. So by re-arranging your solar panels from serial to parallel wiring you can tweak those power curves. 15 cells put out say 300V in series, 15 in parallel will put out about 20V at a higher amperage. If you raid an electronics store for a big diode, or just have a switch you flick at night, you can stop the panels leaching power overnight, or during clouds. You'll need to make the wiring beefier too.
If you're getting close to the right voltage but are just a little over then changing the angle of the panels to the midday sun will change the power point. You're better off being under the optimal voltage (so it wont charge or charge slower than expected), than over (which will evaporate the acid in the batteries).
But before you rewire your panels, you need to think about your battery configuration. I'd suggest go for existing 12V camping stuff rather than try to drive your washing machine with a DC motor at 80V kinda thing, but you may need to think outside the box here.
You're better off raiding an auto-parts store for fresh batteries than salvaging from cars. SLA batteries are ideal as they wont need topping up with demineralised water. Get as many 12V batteries of the same kinds as possible and wire them in parallel.
Incandescent bulbs will run on DC just fine, just if the voltage is lower they'll be a lot dimmer. Compact Fluros need a non-trivial circuit to run on DC, so wont work. This style of modern LED bulbs are amazing - they run from 250V down to about 60V at a constant brightness, AC or DC.
If you have these bulbs (or take them from the shop), your bulbs can run on as low as about 60V DC. However this may be a bit too high - these bulbs will fit in existing wiring and sockets and run on 12V. What voltage you run on depends on your most power-hungry appliances, your white goods.
Light switches will work if the power flows through them.
I've seen a washing machine with a DC motor, so you could theoretically hack that to work, however you're better off raiding a caravan manufacturer or camping supply store for these. Some caravans have built in 12V washing machines.
Big, family-sized heat pumps (fridge, freezer, air con) are almost always AC and wont work. However DC models for caravans do exist and can be salvaged. You can also get camping fridges and freezers that can run on varying DC voltages. Often these camping fridges can run between 9V and 30V fine.
You can get a 12V plumbed in water heater from camping stores, and a 12V constant pressure pump to pump from your tank to your existing plumping.
You need to connect the battery into your lights and through your house. I'd suggest through the existing power box, although there are other ways.
Your existing fusebox (at least the Australian standard one I'm familiar with) is not going to like DC at all. The RCD wont be reliable, and the circuit breakers wont trip when overloaded. You'll need to rip this all out, and replace it with 12V circuit breakers. I've seen replacement ones that fit in existing fuseboxes for 12V, however you probably wont be able to find these at every electrical store, just any old 12V DC circuit breaker will do - basically a car electrical fuse box will do the job.
Connecting it all
- Cut your houses power main with pruning sheers or the like (you don't want to start a fire somewhere far away)
- Disconnect every electrical device and light bulb from your place.
- Obtain 12V fridge, freezer, lightbulbs, aircon, washing machine, hot water system from camping stores or caravan manufacturers.
- Set up your solar panels such that they provide, say 14.8V in the midday sun.
- Set up your batteries in a ventilated area.
- Put a night switch or a diode between the panels and the batteries.
- Run wires from the batteries to the power in in your fuse box.
- Connect it all.
- Measure voltage at light socket outlet. 14.8 into battery should be about 13.5V though house wiring at the socket. Turn light switch off. Insert 12V bulb. Turn on, tada! light.
- Install other 12V devices over time.